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Fibers&Fabrics

Wool
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There are hundreds of different sheep breeds and their wools vary in color, length, diameter and density.

 

Each type of wool has been developed to have different characteristics and uses and within each type, the quality of the fleece can vary from good to poor depending on:

  • the health and age of the sheep and its diet, 

  • the breed of the sheep and the part of the sheep’s body from which the wool is taken from;

  • and ultimately, the weather and the environment

 

The different wools are classified according to the diameter which is measured in microns - one micron equals one milionth of a meter.

Fiber diameter is the single most important wool characteristic determining it's quality and price.

 

The diameter of wool fibers varies from 10 to 70 microns, beeing that Fine Wools range from 18 to 24 microns and Superfine Wools range from 15 to 18 microns along with other high quality fibers such as Cashmere.

Fine and Superfine Wool is mostly produced by sheep breeds with Merino ancestry and the finest and most valuable wool comes from Australia and New Zealand - that hold nearly 80% of the world's Merino production.

Cashmere
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Unlike wool sheared off a sheep, cashmere hair is combed from the goat’s soft undercoat during the Spring moult and one goat can yield approximately 150g to 500g of hair every year.

 

In order to be determined has Cashmere, the fiber must not only be produced by a Cashmere goat, it must also have a maximum diameter of 19 microns and less than 3% of it’s fibers over 30 microns.

 

 

Although it’s name derives from the Indian Province of Kashmir, little of the Cashmere used today comes from India as the most significant suppliers are China, Mongolia and Tibet.

 

Cashmere is a light-weight fiber that makes it extremely warm and highly adaptable. Cashmere goats survive on pastures between 3500m and 4500m altitude and temperatures ranging from – 30º C to +30º C.

Vicuña
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Being the smallest member of the camel family, Vicuñas have the finest fleece of any wool-bearing animal measuring only 12 microns in diameter.

 

Each vicuña produces about 200g to 500g of wool every two years.

During the time of the Incas only royals were allowed to wear the vicuña fleece and this wool was gathered in a Chacu – a sort of round up where the vicuñas where corralled, sheared and then released.

 

Declared as an endangered species in the 1970’s, the efforts of local and international organizations managed to recover up to 125 000 vicuñas in Peru, Chile, Argentina and Bolivia and after almost 20 years, the trade of vicuña wool was re-enabled.

 

As its wool is sensitive to chemical treatment and does not take dying well,  the Vicuña is usually left in its natural color.

Coming soon...
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When considering Tailoring Fabrics, there are many fibers involved and each have their on specific characteristics and purposes.

 

We will keep updating this page hoping you enjoy reading a bit more about each fiber that goes into a high quality suit.

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